Every cruise is different, and a European Waterways barge cruise is no exception. My sister and I took a week-long journey along the Canal du Bourgogne, and the memories we made will last a lifetime.
I wasn’t sure what to expect on a European Waterways barge cruise, but friends who had been had only good things to say. I convinced my sister to step away from work for a week (no easy task) and join me on what promised to be an unforgettable adventure through the French countryside.
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What is a Barge Cruise?
A barge cruise is exactly what it sounds like: a former canal barge (ours, La Belle Époque, was 100 years old) that now carries passengers on a luxury tour. European Waterways has 17 such ships and offers itineraries throughout Europe, from the River Shannon in Ireland to the canals of Italy.
Each barge has been converted into a luxury hotel on water. Our ship had elegant wood finishes, a comfortable lounge with a dining table, a large deck with a hot tub, and six staterooms.
Our stateroom was extremely comfortable, with twin beds, a storage cabinet, and drawers beneath the beds. The bathroom looked brand new, with a toilet, a sink, and a spacious shower (unusual for a boat). Our room had two portholes but ample lighting. I had worried about feeling claustrophobic, but we were above the waterline and never had any issues. There was also a heating unit, which proved quite useful on chilly spring mornings.
Our Burgundy Itinerary on La Belle Époque
Before setting foot on the ship, I had no idea what to expect. I had sailed on large river cruises before, but this experience was entirely new to me. When I looked over the itinerary, it mentioned that I could walk or cycle alongside the ship. I didn’t understand how that was possible, but it turns out it’s very easy to do.
The schedule for our six-night trip along the Canal du Bourgogne included stops at Château de Commarin, Abbaye de Fontenay, Maison Taisne Riocour Champagne House and vineyards, Château d’Ancy-le-Franc, and Domaine Laroche, the birthplace of Chablis wine. This itinerary covers approximately 50 kilometers (31 miles) of the Canal du Bourgogne over six days.
Our Barge Cruise in Burgundy
On the first day of our cruise, our group gathered at a pre-designated hotel in central Paris. Just before 2 p.m., we were greeted by European Waterways staff, who explained that we would board two minibuses for a 2.5-hour drive to the starting point of our adventure. The journey was comfortable, and we arrived at the ship in Venarey-les-Laumes in the late afternoon.
Once on board and introduced to the six-member crew, we had time to head to our room and unpack (more on packing tips later). Afterwards, we made our way up to the sundeck to enjoy canapés and champagne and get acquainted with our fellow passengers. We then cruised a short distance to the dock where we would spend our first evening in the French countryside.
Dinner that evening was filled with lively conversation to accompany the delicious meal prepared by our chef, Gio. We began with a pumpkin velouté, followed by lobster with zucchini roulade and bisque, then a cheese course, and finally a strawberry tart for dessert. Both red and white wines were served throughout to complement each course. Let’s just say we both slept well that night.
Day 2: Château Commarin
Every morning kicked off with a magnificent breakfast spread that included fruit, fresh juice, breads from the local bakery, yogurt, granola, meats, cheese, and made-to-order eggs, bacon, and sausage. You could even ask for pancakes if you wanted! This was a great way to start the day.
With full bellies, my sister and I seized our first opportunity to hop off the boat and walk the footpath that ran parallel to the canal. Along the way, we discovered the small village of Courcelles Les Montbard and gave it a quick look around. We hopped back on the boat at its next stop, about 2 miles upstream.
Visiting Château Commarin
After lunch, we took two separate sprinter vans to Château Commarin, where we were treated to a falconry experience that allowed us to interact with an owl and various hawks. The birds were majestic!
Following the performance, the current owner of the estate, Comte Bertrand de Vogüé, shared the story of his family’s ancestral home. The property was originally a Roman villa, and dates to the 13th century. It has been passed through the same family for the past 26 generations, which is quite amazing considering the French Revolution and German occupation in World War 2. Currently, he manages the estate with his dog, Oslo, and miniature pig, Daisy. Let me tell you, it is quite an undertaking for one person!
Visitors can tour the grounds. We saw the stables, chapel, kitchen, library, and some rooms from the 18th century, decorated with beautiful tapestries.
The evening finished with another wonderful meal: asparagus with pistachio pesto and a poached egg, braised lamb, cheese (turns out this shows up at every meal), and a poached pear with salted caramel and vanilla cream. So good!
Day 3: Abbey de Fontenay
After breakfast, we headed off to the day’s excursion, the Abbaye de Fontenay. The abbey was founded in 1118 by Saint Bernard of Clairvaux, and it is the oldest preserved Cistercian abbey in the world. Upon arrival, you are enveloped by the place’s serenity, as it sits in a small valley surrounded by trees on all sides.
Our tour began at the dovecote and kennel where the monks kept the hunting dogs for the Dukes of Burgundy. Supposedly, there were “hundreds” of dogs, which is amazing, but makes me think the monks spent a lot of time cleaning up after them! We then headed to the stunning but austere chapel before making our way to the cloisters and Chapter House.
The Cistercians were known for their advanced water engineering, and at Fontenay, you can see their work. On the south side of the complex is a water-powered forge, reconstructed from the original design that dates back to 1220. Here, the monks transformed iron ore (extracted from stone quarried on the hillside above the monastery) into tools that were sold throughout the region. It’s quite amazing to see.
After lunch, we took a long walk and made friends with the local cows and a dog named Praline. The dog would wait patiently for the boat to arrive because she knew it meant treats. She was so cute!
That evening, we were treated to a surprise appearance by a local band, the Riverboat Band of Burgundy. They played some excellent jazz tunes and were quite the performers. One of the crew members, Daniel, sang with them, and he was amazing!
Day 4: Champagne
Today’s adventure featured a trip to Les Riceys and Maison Taisne Riocour. We were met at the vineyards by Baron Charles de Taisne, where he discussed the history and production of champagne from vine to wine.
From here, we went to his impressive estate, Château de Ricey-Bas. Here we were introduced to his lovely wife, Baroness Ségolène de Taisne. We were welcomed into their parlor and enjoyed champagne and canapés, followed by a gourmet lunch in their salon. Ségolène was an amazing hostess, and we enjoyed listening to her stories about the history of their home and family. It was truly one of my favorite parts of the cruise.
Day 5: Château d’Ancy-le-Franc
This morning was a beautiful day for a bike ride. The boat travels with about 15 bicycles, and the deck crew is more than happy to prepare them for your use. These bikes are cruiser style, and not the most comfortable for long rides, but perfectly suitable for cycling along the canal. It was a nice change of pace from walking, so I recommend trying if you’re up for something different.
In the afternoon, we docked at the French village of Ancy-le-Franc. From here, we walked into town and then gathered at the main attraction, Château d’Ancy-le-Franc. This 16th-century castle has been beautifully restored and features amazing murals, stunning floors, and spectacular woodwork. It was a treat to spend time exploring.
After our tour, we headed outside to explore the massive gardens, which cover over 100 acres. We didn’t have time to see everything, but it was a lovely spring day, and we enjoyed strolling the grounds.
Day 6: Chablis
This morning, we headed to Domaine La Roche in the town of Chablis. This is the home of the Obédiencerie, a 9th-century monastery where Chablis was founded. For centuries, Chabliswines have been aged in these cellars. We had a chance to tour through the different vaults and walk through their collection. This was followed by a tasting and some time to explore Chablis on our own.
That afternoon, we took a 2-hour walk along the river, had an amazing Captain’s Farewell Dinner, and then danced into the wee hours with our new friends.
Day 7: Back to Paris
After breakfast, we started our journey back to Paris, where we were dropped off at our starting point. Farewells were said, and we all went our own ways, but we will never meet as strangers again.
Meals on La Belle Epoque
The food on our barge cruise was next level. We never had a bad meal, and I never turned away a dish (even though I don’t eat a lot, I couldn’t help myself!). Some of our favorite meals were a deconstructed niçoise salad, a Charolais steak, ceviche with soy vinaigrette and grilled clementine, duck with cherry sauce, and Crêpes Suzette. My mouth is watering just thinking about them.
I’ve watched enough episodes of reality television shows to know that chefs can be “temperamental”. Let’s just say, our chef, Gio, was anything but. He was lovely and had a great sense of humor. Gio introduced each course and made dietary accommodations as needed.
Activities and Amenities on our Burgundy Barge Cruise
Some of our favorite activities this week were our walks and cycling along the footpaths. On board, we relaxed by the jacuzzi (didn’t go in because it was still cold), read books, had conversations with other guests, played card games, and took naps. One day, Gio gave a cooking demonstration. This is not a cruise where you will be entertained every minute of the day, and for us, that was exactly what we needed.
If you do need wi-fi, there is Starlink on the ship. There are no televisions, but I promise you won’t miss them.
What should you pack for a barge cruise?
When it comes to packing, I am a minimalist. I always travel with a carry-on suitcase and backpack or tote. This trip was no exception, but I did use vacuum bags for the first time, and I was very impressed by how much space they saved. I packed a pair of tennis shoes, short rain boots, and a pair of ballet flats. I used them all, and was glad I brought the boots because there were rainy days and damp grass. Be sure to check the weather before your trip.
Please note that the dress code on the barge cruise is very casual. Wear what you want. The only night we dressed up was the Captain’s Dinner, and we wore casual dresses. Note: There is no laundry on the ship, so keep that in mind when packing.
La Belle Epoque Staff
One of the highlights of our trip was meeting the amazing staff of La Belle Epoque. The captain, Ema, set the tone for the entire group. She was professional and organized with great energy and enthusiasm for the job. Ludwig, the pilot, was an amazing navigator, especially under pressure, and very good-natured. Marius, the deckhand, was funny and helpful and entertained us on the day tours. Emilie was everything you would want in a lead hostess – professional and quick on her feet, eager to please, and super charming. Daniel, the other host, was very kind-hearted, hard-working, and a good listener. I think my sister and I agree that we would go back just for the opportunity to travel with them again.
If you’re considering a European Waterways barge cruise, do it. It was one of the most fabulous travel experiences we’ve ever had, and we can’t wait to do it again!